Living in a quaint Minneapolis locality has its charms : chummy potlucks , Craftsman bungalows , and plenty of farmers markets , just to name a few . But when it comes to growing crops , challenges burst . Although I have n’t had my backyardsoiltested , some of my neighbor have , and the results are n’t corking . Like many urban area , heavy alloy and arsenic levels present here would reverse edible gardening into a wellness gamble . So , I decided to make the most of my low place and create some raised bed , direct for gamey efficiency when it comes to watering . Here are the steps that read me from backyard to mini - farm :
Building equipment : When choosing baseball bat , keep in brain that you ’ll need what ’s appropriate for growing food ( if you are ) and survive multiple seasons of use . Here ’s what I used :
If you want to go the supererogatory mile and also create a wicket structure over the beds , add these :

Step 1
enter out exactly where you require the parent layer , and how enceinte it ’s run to be . Take your time on this one because , once it ’s built and filled with soil , it will be elusive to move . gather your instrument , and go shopping for the stuff you do n’t have lying around , like the corrugated pipe or PVC brackets ( and if you have those character of item on hired man , please move into the house next to me ) .
Also , determine if you want an irrigation system at the bottom — we wanted to cover the existing yard space with charge card and put in pipes so that plants could get weewee from the roots as well as from the stain surface . If you want raise beds without this system , you get to skim the irrigation scheme , and your beds will be shorter in depth than ours , as a final result .
Step 2
rest out your seam in a scratchy shape of where you want them . Our beds are 10 foot farseeing and 4 feet wide . We chose that sizing because we want to be able to implant and harvest from both side . The deepness is 10 inches , to accommodate the irrigation pipes and 6 in of antecedent space . We used four 2×6 plank and four 2×4 planks , and then pieced them together with the shorter square bracket .
Step 3
Because we wanted to hoop the beds for colder days ( this is Minnesota , after all ) , and sheer down on lineal sun during quick days , we went with a simple PVC structure . write out down your foresighted , largest pipe into smaller sections , and then stop up them with galvanized brackets . These will act as holders for each hoop section .
Step 4
practice a guide hole first and then use the screws . Whenever we tried to skip this step , our cordless drill expressed its unhappiness by stripping the screw heads . Secure the seam together with screws . This tend to make the structure sturdier than using nails .
Step 5
Take your smaller premature ventricular contraction pipe , insert one end into the PVC bracketing , and then bend the pipe over into the bracket on the other side . Be sure to have a very hard suitcase on the pipe because it can snarl back on you if you let it go . If this happens , believe me , the contusion can be very colorful .
Step 6
At this point , you’re able to take to satisfy the upgrade bed with soil and congratulate yourself for an adept DIY job . Or , if you ’re go for the irrigation system , lie down the thick plastic sheeting inside the bottom . This eliminates weeds from growing into your new layer , and also creates an effective water / oxygen artificial lake . Drape the sheeting over the side of the bed by a few inches and batten the corner and side on the inside with framework / greenhouse staples for a tighter fit .
Step 7
Put down a thin layer of soil . This will help to hold the drain tubes into post .
Step 8
Cut the corrugated , perforated plastic drain pipe so that four section conform to inside the beds , on top of the sheeting . We used a way-out power shaft , a Black & Decker Alligator , and it worked very well , but you could also do the occupation with a handsaw , rotary saw or tabular array proverb . Drill or cut a hollow in one of the sections and put a 1 1/4 - column inch PVC tube midway into the pipage . It should be tall enough for convenient lachrymation , sticking out a few inches above the planting surface . This will allow you to fill the pipe once the soil is in place .
Step 9
fill up the layer with soil and smooth it out evenly over the drainage tubes and the layer . Stand back and admire your work — invite a few neighbour over to wonder at the precision , maybe . Then , do some planting .
Step 10
body of water seeds from the top , but also make trusted to regularly fill the drain tube . Although it might seem strange that you only fill one tube to get irrigation to the entire bed , it really does exploit . To keep out glitch and protect plants from parky nights , we put re - lay fabric / row covering over the hoops and secured them with pocket-size clamps — potato - fleck - bag clips work sometimes , too , or binder snip .
That ’s it … the raise beds look ripe , and make the most of our small backyard . Plus , with the irrigation system , they tend to expend less piss than our other plants . Happy building !
